Paper trail – Paper Runway Magazine {2012}

PUBLISHED IN PAPER RUNWAY MAGAZINE
ISSUE 4, JANUARY 2012

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I’ll be honest: when I packed my suitcase for a ten day adventure through Rome, Florence and Venice, I left it half empty just to allow for paper.

Like a fashionista might go woozy over the smell of Italian leather, or stumble in her Choo’s over a street lined with Prada and Missoni, just as a chocoholic might melt at the sight of Baci boxes by the dozens, it is paper that takes my heart. The lingering woody scent that slightly catches in my throat and conjures nostalgia, the tingle when I slide my finger across uneven textures, the allure of crooked bookshelves piled high with hand-bound journals, a rainbow of calligraphy inks and artisan supplies to fulfill every ideal of the perfectly wrapped present – that’s my happy place.

I have been living in Europe since May, freelancing in design, travelling far and wide, taking occasional French classes and calling Montpellier in the South of France my home. I have picnicked on the steps of the Basilique du Sacré-Cœur overlooking a twilight Paris, savoured apple tart and runny custard on the cobbled streets of Stockholm, dipped my toes in the glorious waters of La Côte d’Azur and rode on the world’s steepest cogwheel train up the side of a 4000 ft. mountain face in Lucerne, among countless other adventures. My final hurrah with Europe had to top all of that, and more to the point, had to end on a paper high. I had grand expectations for Italy and I was not disappointed.

Kindred paper hearts, here is your handpicked trail, the crème-de-la-crème of paper hangouts to lose your mind and your pennies in during your next jaunt through Italy.

Rome

Il Papiro (Via del Pathenon, 50) is the vanilla of an Italian paper shop. I say vanilla because it will sate every paper purist, and with stores across Rome, Florence, Pisa, New York and even Melbourne, it is available practically anywhere (maybe not the freezer section). This Il Papiro is a stone’s throw from the incredible Pathenon, so you can conveniently tick your tourist box and indulge in a paper purchase on the same street. The store is quaint and filled to the brim with hand-marbled papers, journals, boxes, calligraphic inks, fountain pens, wax seals and more.

My purchases: Two sheets of hand-marbled paper (at 18 euro per sheet it is not cheap, but when in Rome…)

Cartolerie de Pathenon (Via della Rotonda, 15) is the rum and raisin equivalent. It’s an adult flavour of decadence, reserved for the more cultured and elite paper aficionado. The brightly coloured and hand-bound leather journals are potent, the papers are rich and after lingering a little while in the shop you feel a bit light headed. The shopkeeper Antonio is welcoming and helpful – leather bookbinding has been his family’s business since 1910.

My purchases: A pocket-sized magenta leather journal, handmade just outside of Rome (Antonio carefully packaged it up in a cotton pouch with leather care instructions attached for me), a box of 25 place cards with gold leaf and 2 sheets of Rossi Florentine wrap – one in burgundy, salmon and gold, the other in soft pink, jade and pale blue.

Ditta G Poggi (Via del Gesù, 74) is the lemon flavour. It’s refreshing but a bit watery and leaves you wishing you’d picked another. It’s really a glorified art supplies shop with a small range of thick Fabriano watercolour stocks and papery remnants hidden away in a side room.

Vertecchi (Via della croce, 70) is almond – popular enough but a little nutty. Case in point: upon arriving, I walked through the holly lined entrance to find a display of stationery, Christmas decorations… and a life-size sleeping Santa, with recorded snoring on repeat. I’m all for Christmas spirit but the snoring.. too much. If you visit, do so in a non-Christmas period. To its credit, there are cute letter sets with beautiful patterns at very reasonable prices, a whole room full of Filofax binders and another filled with just fountain pens.

Florence

Fabriano Boutique (via del Corso, 59) is a luscious, artisan raspberry delight. Popular, fresh and bursting with delicious bright colour. I accidentally (intuitively?) stumbled upon the shop when navigating myself from the train station to hotel. I couldn’t resist walking inside and suddenly an hour had vanished. There are tangerine, violet and cherry leather compendiums, greeting cards, quirky paper gifts and more.

My purchases: A limited edition Lamy fountain pen, raspberry ink and a pile of greeting card-come-photo albums to fill with memories and give as gifts.

Signum (Borgo degli Albizi 54r) had my heart skipping beats before I had even opened the heavy wooden door. In a non-descript back street, just far enough away from where the tourists roam, I stepped inside this cozy, hushed nook and indulged in glorious dark chocolate flavour. The shop floor is narrow, with rich, decadent journals and paper supplies lining both sides. At the far end of the shop, beyond the counter is a workshop where all the journals are handmade in store. There is chocolate and then there is Signum chocolate, ergo, it can’t be missed.

Johnsons & Relatives (Via del Proconsolo, 26r) is so many things that it is hard to decide on a single flavour to summarise. It’s something smooth and complex, it will appeal to all tastes yet somehow feels very refined. A good, strong coffee flavour, perhaps. You step inside, immediately feel warmth and take an absorbing browse, then leave with renewed energy, a sense of invigoration and caffeine-induced tingles. The papers, handmade boxes, letter sets and three dimensional gift cards are all exquisite quality and moorish.

R. Vannucchi (Via Condotta, 26/28r) is a subtle pistachio flavour. There are other flavours I’d always choose before it, but it is still a solid, popular choice for many. This store has a standard range of hand-marbled paper stocks, journals and everything you’d expect to find in a Florence paper shop.

Venice

Biblos Venezia (S. Marco 2087 Via XXII Marzo) is just a street away from the famous Piazza San Marco. Step inside this humble boutique once you’ve hopped off your gondola ride and be ready for another treat. I’d consider this store peach flavour – the journals are sweet and the wax candles available in warm, summery hues.

My purchases: a cursive ‘E’ stamp and bright red wax candle to seal my envelopes with an (Italian) kiss.

Il Prato Venezia (Calle delle Ostreghe, 2456/9) is the coveted Tiramisu flavour: it combines the virtues of a classic Italian desert with a fresh, cool twist. The store is filled with the classic journals, papers, stationery and boxes you would expect to find in a traditional Italian paper shop, but the unique and bold woodblock patterns are far from a typical Florentine swirl.

As you can see, paper shops are scattered throughout Italy in a breathtaking rainbow of colours and flavours (gold stars to those who guessed my second Italian themed love is gelati.) Whether you have a penchant for rich and traditional, or prefer the fruity and fresh, you will be delighted with what these cities have in store. So go forth, unbutton your jeans, unzip your suitcase expander and follow this paper trail with creative abandon – the very essence of La Dolce Vita.

Address Book

ROME

• Il Papiro
  Via del Pathenon, 50
  Salita de’ Crescenzi, 28
• Cartolerie de Pathenon
  Via della Rotonda, 15
  Via della Maddalena, 41
  Piazza Navona, 42
• Ditta G Poggi
  Via del Gesù, 74
• Vertecchi
  Via della croce, 70

FLORENCE

• Il Papiro
  Via Cavour, 49r
  Piazza del Duomo, 24r
  Lungarno Acciaiuoli, 42r
  Via de’ Tavolini, 13r
  Via Porta Rossa, 76r
  Via Guicciardini, 47r
  Via Guelfa, 46r
• Fabriano Boutique
  Via del Corso, 59
• Signum
  Borgo degli Albizi, 54r
  Lungaro Archibusieri, 14r
  Borgo de’ Greci, 40r
  Via de’ Benci, 29r-31r
• Johnsons & Relatives
  Via del Proconsolo, 26r
• R. Vannucchi
  Via Condotta, 26/28r

VENICE

• Il Papiro
  Calle del Piovan – San Marco 2764
  Calle delle Bande – Castello 5275
• Biblos Venezia
  S. Marco 2087 Via XXII Marzo
• Il Prato Venezia
  Calle delle Ostreghe, 2456/9